What first caught my attention about Urban Bar-B-Que was how two
accomplished chefs ended up smoking barbecue for time-pressed urbanites
and suburbanites. (Both come from fine-dining backgrounds.) But
it only took a few bites before I knew I had found the best barbecue
in Maryland and the Washington, D.C. metropolitan area.
Aiming for succulent perfection, owners Lee Howard and David Calkins
combine their formidable talents in conjuring up a menu offering
both variety and quality to please the most discriminating of barbecue
aficionados. Their motto? “Genuine slow-smoked barbecue served
with big city flavor.”
The modest Urban BBQ headquarters challenges patrons to “discover
your inner redneck at Urban Bar-B-Que Company.” The restaurants
has a down-home décor that entertains diners with twangs
of “tongue-in-cheek” sarcasm for those of us who are
cowboys or cowgirls at heart; and clever double-entendres for the
urban sophisticate. This is self-service with a full-service feel.
My teenage daughter and son thought “UBQ” was cool
with its offbeat wit. They also agreed that the barbecue —
especially the beef brisket — was a hot commodity.
Urban Bar-B-Que's Commitment
Things
We Do
Smoke
our meat slow and low
Treat you right
Love our Mothers
Take VISA, MC, AMEX, DC, DISC
Support our Troops
Use only the freshest products
Cook everything with extra love and sarcasm!
Things
We Don’t Do
Blow
smoke
Date your sister
Steam our ribs
Take any guff
Cheat our guests
Use pre-made products
Play show tunes
Co-owner Lee provides a quick run-down on regional differences
in barbecue. He tells us that folks from the Carolinas prefer “pulled”
or diced pork with a vinegary base and a dash of red pepper flakes.
The Midwest, which he sometimes calls Kansas, is characterized by
a tomato-orange sauce with celery seed while Texans want beef with
a hearty but sweetly-laced sauce. Parts of Texas reflect Southwest
heritage with ever present tones of chili powder and cumin. Memphis
barbecue — Lee’s admitted favorite — is usually
pork with a sweet and tangy tomato base. Thick and smoky with a
base of molasses, sauces are usually red. Though he says some say
Urban BBQ is a fusion of all four regions, Lee is quick to point
out that various dishes on their menu capture regional distinctions
as well as the different personalities of Urban BBQ itself. At a
later date, co-owner David admits, “We are guilty of adapting
to our surroundings and clientele.”
UBQ has choices to meet everyone’s preference in BBQ. “But
people from the Carolinas are usually the toughest and most particular
when it comes to barbecue,” Lee says. “They have distinct
druthers for the way meat is diced, sliced, chopped and minced.
. Barbecue is not just an art form, but a way of life for many people,
and that’s what we try to capture here.”
With a Midwest cut smacking more of St. Louis style ribs, nevertheless
they are flavored with a smoky sweet and tangy tomato-based sauce
more in the makings of Memphis. The hybrid result is a slab of succulent,
moist and tender ribs with substance, texture, and taste.
For me, the Urban’s Soul Rolls are a personal favorite, excellent
for light appetites or as bar food washed down with a Shiner Rock
Longneck. These Soul Rolls are the redneck version, with a southwest
twist — a BBQ egg roll with brisket, and caramelized onions,
and three cheeses served with Redneck Fondue “for dippin’.”
Lee says the fondue consists of three cheeses with the restaurant's
famous Two Step Chili. I love the mustard-based “yella”
sauce with everything including the Soul Rolls — strange because
my usual preference is for Texas-type BBQ.
Karson and Kosette, my teenaged gastronomic crew, give top marks
to the cornbread which they find truly exceptional because of the
sweet crumby moistness and little surprises of corn kernels that
add texture. (Unfortunately our more than ample serving disappeared
before I could confirm their assessment.)
